Hi Francesco, I myself do not think that the plinth should be very heavy. What really is important: a. the construction should be very solid and firm. b. the support (audiorack, cabinet, shelf) should be without resonance and preferably be coupled using spikes on a concrete floor (holes in the carpet) or the turntable should be supported by a special rack mounted on the wall. I made a plinth for a customer which was constructed of 18 mm chipboard. I made a top and a bottom and sides of this chipboard. The plinth was 10 cm high and had just the size to be able to accomodate the turntable. So the plinth had about the size of the turntable. I covered the sides with one long sheet of veneer and bent it around the corners. On sections of the sides there was no room for the chipboard but that did not matter. You can make the plinth very short, just the width of the TD124 or make it larger so 12" arms can be mounted. When the entire plinth was ready I made the cut out on the top of this plinth for the TD124. I screwed 4 rubber insulators at the bottom. The construction was very good and the sound also! The TD124 was resting on its 4 points on the plinth and supported by rubber insulators (instead of the original mushroom shaped rubbers). You also can make a very large plinth in the way the second picture shows. (These pictures were not taken by me but I found these after I had constructed both versions of plinth.) My PayPal e-mail address is: email@example.com If you want a real size cut out diagram you will have to add $5 to the $20. In that case the total amount is $25. Good luck and best regards, Rudolf.
Hi Paul, I'm glad to hear that your TD124 is working as it should. From what you initially wrote I got the impression that something was wrong. Just a few additional remarks. In essence the cones right under the wooden base do a similar job as the coupling of my cabinet with spikes to the concrete floor. I do not like glass at all, nor as a turntable mat neither as a material for constructing the base of the table as is done in the Marantz TT1000. The Decca cartridge is very good for jazz but not for classical music, especially when the last movement of a symphony or concerto with load passages is engraved at the end of the record. The vertical compliance of the cartridge is abominable. There are two things you could check: 1. Adjust the arm is such a way that the lowest degree of error is near the inner grooves. 2. Play at an optimal downforce. This is about 3 grs. for a DECCA Blues and 1.7 grs. for a DECCA Gold. And, yes there is some attraction between the strong magnet and the iron platter. An aluminum platter is therefor preferred. My set (transistor amplifiers + Lux elelctronic crossover with valves) also reaches its best sound quality after hours of playing, but specifically after 6 o'clock when the mains is less distorted by shops, businesses, etc. Till another time. Rudolf.
Hello Margiotta, First of all I want to ask if it is the light aluminum platter that is turning a bit excentrically, or is it the heavy, lower platter? Secondly: Are you sure the bearing does not leak oil and is completely closed at the bottom? If it losses oil you should renew the plastic gasket (see the TD124 Page). In any case when you screw the platter on the shaft you have to do that in this way (maybe you have done it exactly as I describe here): 1. When the shaft (spindle) is lowered completely by itself (do not force it down), than you put the platter on the top of the spindle. 2. Put the platter in such a way that the spindle is excatly in the middle so that the little space around the spindle is even on all sides. 3. Put the bolts in, so, that they easily fall into the appropriate holes. Now screw the bolts just a little bit, one after another and again and again one after another. And finally tighten one screw one after another. If there is too much play for the bolts in the center of the platter, I mean: if the top of each bolt does not fit precisely in a hole, then this method does not work too well. In that case you should do this: screw the bolts not completely and turn the platter by hand very lightly and check if the platter shows excentricity. If so adjust the platter by trying to move it in the center just a bit. Turn the platter again by hand and check. repeat this untill you have found the best position without visible excentricity. Then tighten carefully the bolts without disturbing the position you found. This is the only procedure I can advise you. And maybe you have done this without getting a positive result. The only way to acheive it is to try again and again. I have checked my TD124 and it showed that the platter in well centered but the edge reveals some change which is not so much excentricity but is the way the platter was turned. Try to get the best result. What you also can do is unscrew the platter and lift it up, turn it 1/3 so that the hole is now on the next hole on the top of the spindle. And then start the procedure 1.2.3. again. Once you have found the best position just indicate with a marker which hole of the platter should coincide with what hole in the top of the spindle. So that you can put the platter always on the same holes. You know what I mean. I hope this is of any help to you. Good luck. Rudolf.
Hi Karl-Heinz, I am sorry but I do not have an armboard for a 12" arm. You can make one yourself or have one made by using chipboard (Spanplatte) of the same thickness as the original 9" board. I would not recommend using MDF. If you screw it very tight with the 3 screws, you should not be able to bend it. Of course you can use other sorts of woold like tropical wood. The stronger and harder the wood is, the less colouration you will notice. Using chipboard as Thorens will have also a good reproduction of mid and low frequencies. What you can do also is to ask the man in the DIY woodshop to take a piece of 18 mm chipboard (the kind with a plastic finish which is used for DIY cabinetbuilding, etc.) and cut it to the desired size for a 12" armboard. This chipboard is very good because the density is high at the surface underneath the plastic finish. But since it is too thick the carpenter should shave one surface until the desired thickness has been reached. The sides can be painted the same colour as the plastic finish. This is a good alternative to the original armboard. The mechanical hum of the motor could be caused by the fact that the housing of the motor is not srewed tightly, or because the rubber suspension rings have become dry, or there is a mechanical problem of the motor because somebody has dropped it. You probably need a replacement motor. If the machine works OK there should be no hum of course. I think that the problem is not the limitation of the old concept. My TD124 works very well in this respect. But as I wrote earlier I had 2 machines which were not as good as this one. Good luck. Rudolf.